Denim Definitions: Your Basic Guide to Jeans

The world of denim is full of esoteric terms, like ‘slub’ or ‘selvedge’, and when navigating everything from style to rise to find a pair that not only fit but also flatter, the addition of these tricky terms can make the process all the more frustrating. But we’ve got your back with our cheat sheet to denim’s vast vocabulary.

Here are the most important terms you need to know for finding your new favorite jeans.

Raw (adj.) Unwashed, untreated denim. It’s dark, stiff and should be reserved for denim connoisseurs who see breaking jeans in as a legitimate hobby. Antonyms: see washed.

Rise (n.): The length between the crotch and the waistband. Typically broken down into low-rise, mid-rise and high-waisted. The latter, gents, is best left to the ladies.

Selvedge (n.) The Kobe beef of denim. This top shelf twill is woven on old-fashioned looms to create finished edges that prevent unraveling for ultra-durable denim. If you spend the money to buy selvedge, show it off by cuffing your ankles to bare its signature seam.

Slubby (adj.): A term that refers to the texture of cotton yarn that is naturally nubby. Only found in raw denim, slub gives your jeans a perfectly imperfect look.

Stretch (adj.): Denim woven with spandex or elastane. If you are going to opt for slim-fit like skinnies, then look for a pair with a healthy dose of stretch to them. You’ll have to wash them more than other denim to prevent baggy knees, but comfort will be worth it.

Sundries (n. pl.): The stitching, rhinestones or rivets that decorate your back pockets. Sundries tend to cycle with fashion trends, from ornate during the baroque periods of fashion (see: early aughts) to minimal (see: 90s mom jeans).   

Twill (n.): Look closely at your denim. See that rigid diagonal pattern? That’s what we call a twill weave. There are also different types of twill—a left-handed weave that is softer, a right-handed weave which is the cheapest, and broken twill which combines them both and, ironically, is so durable it will never break.

Wash (n.): Refers to the color and fading produced by the finishing process. End results can vary from solid dark coloring (aka a dark wash) to a well worn-in soft wash called a stone wash from adding pumice rocks to the finishing process. Antonyms: see raw.

Whiskers (n.): The horizontal streaks of fading that occurs around the pockets of your jeans. Women find them particularly flattering, while guys can appreciate the worn and loved look without the effort of wearing them in themselves.

You don’t have to be a denim-head to appreciate this closet staple. Master the basics of buying jeans when you learn the terms and you’re sure to find the perfect pair.

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